redients that Fortuny used. Among his many devotees were Eleanora Duse Isadora Duncan Cleo de Merode the Marchesa Casati Emilienne d'Alencon and Liane de Pougy. The extravagances of the Parisian couturiers came in a variety of shapes but the most popular silhouette throughout the decade was the tunic over a long underskirt. Early in the period, waistlines were high (just below the bust), echoing the Empire or Dir?ctoire styles of the early 19th century. Full hip length "lampshade" tunics were worn over narrow draped skirts. By 1914, skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle. These hobble skirts made long strides impossible. Waistlines were loose and softly defined. They gradually dropped to near the natural waist by mid-decade where they were to remain through the war years. Tunics became longer and underskirts fuller and shorter. By 1916 women were wearing a calf-length dress over an ankle-length underskirt. When the Paris fashion houses reopened after the wa styles for 1919 showed a lowered and even more undefined waist. The Tailleur or tailored suit of matching jacket and skirt was worn in the city and for travel. Jackets followed the lines of tunics with raised lightly defined waists. Fashionable women of means wore striking hats and fur stole or scarves with their tailleurs and carried huge matching muffs. Most coats were cocoon or kimono shaped wide through the shoulders and narrower at the hem. Fur coats were popular. Changes in dress during World War I were dictated more by necessity than fashion. As more and more women were forced to work they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new activities; these derived from the shirtwaists and tailored suits. Social events were postponed in favor of more pressing engagements and the need to mourn the increasing numbers of dead visits to the wounded, and the general gravity of the time meant that darker colors and simpler cuts became the norm.[1] A new monochrome look emerged that was unfamiliar to young women in comfortable circumstances. Women dropped the cumbersome underskirts from their tunic-and-skirt ensembles simplifying dress and shortening skirts in one step. [2]By 1915, the Gazette due Bon Ton was showing full skirts with hemlines above the ankle. These were called the "war crinoline" by the fashion press, who promoted the style as "patriotic" and "practical". Furthermore people were dressing less extravagantly due to funds being put toward the war effort. According to Elieen Collard Coco Chanel took notice of this and created the new innovation of costume jewelry. She replaced expensive necklaces with glass or crystal beads. "Without grading them to size she mixed pearls with other beads to fashion original jewelry to be worn with her designs" that were inspired by women joining the workforce. Shoes had high, slightly curved heels. Shorter skirts put an emphasis on stockings, and gaiters were worn with streetwear in winter. "Tango shoes" inspired by the dance craze had criss-crossing straps at the ankles that peeked out from draped and wrapped evening skirts. During the war years working women wore sensible laced shoes with round toes and lower wedge heels. Large hats with wide brims and broad hats with face-shadowing brims were the height of fashion in the early years of the decade, gradually shrinking to smaller hats with flat brims. Bobbed or short hair was introduced to Paris fashion in 1909 and spread to avant garde circles in England during the war[6]. Dancer silent film actress and fashion trendsetter Irene Castle helped spread the fashion for short hairstyles in America. The sack coat or lounge coat continued to replace the frock coat for most informal and semi-formal occasions. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat (U.S. vest) and trousers were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat. Trousers were ankle length with turn-ups or cuffs, and were creased front and back using a trouser press. The gap between the shorter trousers and the shoes was filled with short gaiters or spats. Waistcoats fastened lower on the chest and were collarless. The blazer a navy blue or brightly-colored or striped flannel coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons was worn for sports sailing and other casual activities. The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits.